Semi Round Island Tour – Day 6 半環島之旅 VI Part1 (綠島)

Lyudao Township
Taitung County, Taiwan 951

第六天。Day 6.
綠島 -> 台東。

26-Apr-2010 21:48, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 18.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

27-Apr-2010 04:10, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 5.0, 14.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400

 

Part 1 –

26-Apr-2010 03:33, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 14.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 18:08, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 14.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800

26-Apr-2010 19:07, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 17.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800

cooking area - for eggs, corns, and shrimps

cooking area – for eggs, corns, and shrimps26-Apr-2010 18:11, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 14.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800

26-Apr-2010 18:11, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 23.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800

 
人工溫泉區

人工溫泉區26-Apr-2010 18:08, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 14.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800

one of only three salt-water hot springs in the world

one of only three salt-water hot springs in the world26-Apr-2010 18:13, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 23.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800

26-Apr-2010 18:14, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 21.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800

26-Apr-2010 18:15, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 14.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800

26-Apr-2010 18:25, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 14.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800

 

26-Apr-2010 18:25, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 14.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 800

26-Apr-2010 18:32, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 7.1, 19.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 800

26-Apr-2010 19:06, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 18.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 800

26-Apr-2010 19:08, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 26.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 800

 

這天早上,首要之務就是趕快去泡朝日溫泉!
溫泉區的設計主要分中間天然區(3井),右邊人工溫泉區,和左邊煮蛋區(但是我們硬是帶了一根玉米!)
不知道是幸亦或是不幸,我們七天旅程幾乎沒看到甚麼太陽,連在墾丁跟綠島都涼得不得了~~早上的朝日溫泉,也因此上面是涼的下面是熱的,是泡過最奇怪的溫泉。當然會稱為朝日溫泉是因為可以看到日出,但是因為我們去的開放時間是早上七點,早已超過日出的時間,所以或許晚上邊看星星邊泡溫泉更有感覺。但是能一邊泡溫泉一邊看海…真的很酷。

綠島資訊服務網是這樣寫的:
朝日溫泉於日治時期名為「旭溫泉」,皆緣於其面東之故。此溫泉為綠島後火山活動的僅餘徵兆,屬硫磺泉,出現於現生珊瑚礁的潮間帶中,漲潮時沒海,退潮時外露。類似的海水溫泉,據云世界僅發現三處,另二處分別在義大利北方與日本九州,因此是世界級的稀有地質景觀資源。溫泉之形,成乃由於海水經岩縫下滲至島嶼下方地層深處,經地熱加溫後成為熱水,再因壓力增加故湧出地面。水溫據測在53~93.c間,味極鹹澀,惟洗後並不黏膩。國家風景區在此設置三個圓形露天浴池與一個小型溫泉泳池,溫度各異,遊客可自行選擇。雲淡風輕的夏夜,是享受此一全台獨一無二露天海水溫泉浴的最好時節。仰望璨爛星河,靜聽海濤拍岸,輕吟曼妙的「綠島小夜曲」,洗盡一身塵囂,人生至境,不過如此!

The next morning after arriving Green Island, we got up early and got to one of only three salt-water hot springs in the world, Jhaorih hot spring. There are three areas here, one It was a cool morning, thus the top of the spring was kind of cool, but the bottom of the spring was hot. It’s very strange yet interesting. None the less, the view was just awesome!

26-Apr-2010 19:43, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.5, 14.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 800

老闆送我們一條玉米

老闆送我們一條玉米26-Apr-2010 19:43, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 4.4, 20.0mm, 0.02 sec, ISO 800

26-Apr-2010 19:46, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 5.0, 26.0mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 800

 

26-Apr-2010 19:47, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.5, 14.0mm, 0.067 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 19:55, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 4.5, 14.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 20:52, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 7.1, 17.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

 

回到民宿,將玉米交給民宿當做早餐的加料。咦怎麼變成兩枚?因為民宿主人想說我們有兩個人,就招待我們一個,超可愛的!更糗的是我們在溫泉煮的玉米沒熟~哈哈哈,誰叫我們要在煮蛋的地方煮玉米,還好民宿主人幫我們煮熟了(那麼到底為了甚麼要去溫泉煮玉米呢 orz…) 享用早餐的同時,還觀賞了主人這對新婚夫婦的潛水婚紗影片!真是太威了!!才剛拍完婚紗的我們對於他們這樣另類的影片真的太佩服了!! 由於我們得搭中午12點的船回台東,主人便跟我們說行李交給他就可以了,我們趕快把握機會去逛逛,他會把行李載到港口給我們,真的是太太太親切了!
We brought the corn cooked at the hot spring back to the B&B hotel, but it returned as a pair! The owner thought since we are two people, he added one extra for free for us! (and the corn we brought back was not fully cooked, so he cooked it again, hahaha. Well, it’s a hot spring for cooking eggs, not a corn!) While we enjoyed the breakfast, we also watched this newly wed couple’s (the owners) pre-wedding video- the bride wearing simple wedding gown doing the scuba diving! it couldn’t be any cooler! The owner was such a nice person, he proposed that we should left our luggage with him, and we could go around more easily, and then he would wait for us at the seaport. We couldn’t thank him for enough…

26-Apr-2010 20:52, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 7.1, 36.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 20:55, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 6.3, 14.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 20:58, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 6.3, 14.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

 
getting biggergetting bigger

getting bigger26-Apr-2010 21:20, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 25.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 21:23, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 17.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 21:25, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 14.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

 

26-Apr-2010 21:33, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 14.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 21:38, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 42.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 21:39, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 13.0, 35.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400

 
將軍石 General Rock將軍石 General Rock

將軍石 General Rock26-Apr-2010 21:41, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 11.0, 28.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

柏林圍牆柏林圍牆

柏林圍牆26-Apr-2010 21:43, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 11.0, 19.0mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400

用綠島的海岩砌的用綠島的海岩砌的

用綠島的海岩砌的26-Apr-2010 21:45, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 18.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

 

26-Apr-2010 21:45, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 20.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

傳說中的地獄門 Hell's Gate傳說中的地獄門 Hell’s Gate

傳說中的地獄門 Hell's Gate26-Apr-2010 21:46, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 45.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 21:47, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 43.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

 
綠洲山莊側門 Green Oasis Village's side door綠洲山莊側門 Green Oasis Village’s side door

綠洲山莊側門 Green Oasis Village's side door26-Apr-2010 21:47, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 30.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 21:48, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 10.0, 18.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 21:50, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 6.3, 14.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

 

於是我們趕緊跑到前一晚夜遊經過的燈塔,人權紀念公園,地獄門,將軍岩和軍營等等去參觀。沒有軍隊的軍營感覺晚上會很可怕…之後我們騎車還誤闖了真的監獄(被看守的人趕回來)原來還是有監獄在綠島啊…就是綠島監獄!(好像在說廢話,但是其實因為我們誤以為所有的監獄都撤了。其實我們想的,就是以前的感訓監獄-綠洲山莊)
地獄門為甚麼叫地獄門呢? 因為以前(在綠島的環島公路尚未搭建前)政治犯們都是經由這個天然的象鼻岩上岸,直直走進對面的綠洲山莊,從此不見天日,所以囚犯們戲稱之為地獄門。照片中的柏林圍牆,是民宿主人告訴我們的。因為有一段時間,從上坡上下來的螃蟹過馬路時被車子壓過,橫屍遍野,於是綠島公所(?)想了一個辦法,用高起的來的矮牆堵住螃蟹,卻沒有在地下作管道讓螃蟹穿過,所以螃蟹們取而代之的死在這個矮牆後面,無法到達海邊,而這群螃蟹被居民們撿光後之後再也沒有他們的蹤跡了….真是讓人啼笑皆非的方案啊…
We then quickly visited the spots went last night, to see them in day light:)

26-Apr-2010 22:01, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 45.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 22:00, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 5.6, 14.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400

綠洲山莊側門 Green Oasis Village's side door綠洲山莊側門 Green Oasis Village’s side door

綠洲山莊側門 Green Oasis Village's side door26-Apr-2010 21:47, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 30.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

wall of Green Oasis Village from insidewall of Green Oasis Village from inside

wall of Green Oasis Village from inside26-Apr-2010 22:02, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 39.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 22:04, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.5, 14.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400

 

26-Apr-2010 22:15, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.5, 14.0mm, 0.04 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 22:16, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.5, 14.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 22:16, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.5, 14.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 22:19, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.5, 14.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400

Green Oasis VillageGreen Oasis Village

Green Oasis Village26-Apr-2010 22:19, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.7, 16.0mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 400

 

26-Apr-2010 22:20, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 4.5, 16.0mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 22:20, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 5.6, 16.0mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 22:21, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.5, 14.0mm, 0.01 sec, ISO 400

The side door from insideThe side door from inside

The side door from inside26-Apr-2010 22:29, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 8.0, 23.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

 

綠洲山莊是由以前的趕訊監獄,裡面展覽的文獻相當豐富。話說當年蔣介石生病時還私下派人來這裡找醫生,因為…所有台灣的精良都在這裡,真是諷刺。現在拍起來和聽起來都極詩意的監獄房間,當年又是怎麼樣的光景呢?難以想像啊~ 這裡也記錄了當年的政治犯如何在搭建環島公路,下農種田時和綠島當地居民建立起深厚的友誼,這是以前沒有想到過的故事。
Green Oasis Village was where KMT imprisoned “the most dangerous” political prisoners. It is said that the most excellent elites of Taiwanese were all here. The memory and history around here were crucial and brutal, but we should try to understand it and embrace the whole. Prisoners here built the walls around the camp and then the round island road, they also did some farming work, thus established a great friendship with the local residents.

26-Apr-2010 22:44, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 3.5, 14.0mm, 0.017 sec, ISO 400

26-Apr-2010 22:57, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 7.1, 14.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

27-Apr-2010 00:22, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 17.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

 

27-Apr-2010 00:22, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 7.1, 17.0mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 400

The are doing round island cycling in Taiwan

The are doing round island cycling in Taiwan27-Apr-2010 00:23, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 9.0, 17.0mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 400

 

走過綠洲山莊和新完成的第三大隊(新生訓導處第三大隊,是當年另一個管訓的地方,現為綠島人權文化園區之ㄧ)後,我們沿途繼續騎往觀音洞,這裡有天然的石筍貌似觀音像,島上的居民以供奉數百年喔。雖然不大,但這真是見過最特別的寺廟了!
繞完綠島一圈,緊接著,我們就得到港口準備回台東了。由於來不及聯絡機車阿嬤(出租機車的阿嬤,不是很機車的阿嬤),我們將鑰匙留給民宿主人請他代我們還車,再一次感謝夏卡爾的民宿主人!接著,我們將由台東租車開往花蓮,在花蓮留宿! (聽起來又是好趕) 待續!
After visiting the Green Oasis Village and the New Life Correction Center, we continued to ride to the Guanyin Cave, where sits a stone naturally looks like Guanyin. This cave has been dedicated to Guanyin for hundreds of years.
Shortly after this, we had to go back to the seaport to pick up our luggage and return to Taitung. Green Island is a really small island, but it’s indeed the most unforgettable place in our trip! (to be continued… )

The helmet couple 安全帽二人組The helmet couple 安全帽二人組

The helmet couple 安全帽二人組26-Apr-2010 21:27, Panasonic DMC-GF1, 6.3, 14.0mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 400

 

ps:
在綠島,我們可能是唯二有戴安全帽的人,但是因為這樣也挺酷的,我們就依直戴著~甚至路上遇到的老外都很隨俗的不戴,只有我們兩個怪咖…哈哈哈
we were probably, and very likely, the only two visitors wearing the helmet in Green Island…even the foreigners we saw were wearing a helmet, ha…

綠島維基百科
綠島舊名雞心嶼、青仔嶼與火燒島等。火燒島舊名眾說紛紜,以清嘉慶年間大火焚燒島嶼之說最為大眾採信。1937年設火燒島庄,屬台東廳台東郡管轄。戰後火燒島設鄉,歸屬於台東縣管轄,於1948年改名為“綠島”,延用至今。
據歷史記載,綠島最早為達悟族、阿美族等原住民居地。嘉慶18年小琉球(今琉球鄉)漢人漁民曾勝開等為風漂至火燒島,於阿眉山下的海濱建一共同住屋稱為公館,著手開墾,並且招小琉球家眷及民眾至,因來者日眾,故在中寮灣岸建一聚落,名曰「中寮」,光緒後漢人往來更頻繁。
道光30年,東港漁民陳必先等餘人,在行船歸途中遭遇颱風,漂流至綠島,大嘆綠島之美,一年後便率人前來定居開墾,最早於柚子湖、溫泉一帶居住,後來移民漸增。即成為今日公館村、南寮村、中寮村、溫泉村等村落。

A few links for English reader –
[Taipei Times] FEATURE: Green Island visit revives memories
Green Island Wiki.
The Razzel Berry: Green Island (Lu Dao, 綠島)

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